Umana Bali lines the edge of Uluwatu’s cliffs with huge luxury villas, surrounded by wellness facilities, great dining experiences and genuine holiday peace.

Your jaw will drop to the floor when you first walk into one of Umana Bali’s villas. It could be bigger than your house and it most certainly has a better view – over the jungle canopy and the cliffs that line Bali’s far southeast. The Indian Ocean all a shimmer.

As you push open the large door, you find a raised pathway that draws you over a water feature into your new sanctuary, walled in for full privacy. Outside a huge infinity pool and hot tub – all yours! The sunlounges, sunbed and outdoor table, too. But also, the view; yours to soak in… as you soak in.

Monkeys watch on with curious eyes as you circle back to your villa entrance. The expansive, air-conditioned room beyond is bigger than what you’ll get in most hotels and it’s just the living space. A huge comfortable couch, coffee table and desk peer towards the floor-to-ceiling glass as the roof towers up in traditional Balinese style. A large smart TV sits in the wall. Then there’s the full dining table and kitchen, including a wine fridge.

Further in, past the first toilet, is a bedroom of equal opulence. Its sliding glass doors opening directly into the infinity pool, for when you’re not in the comfortable bed relaxing with a movie on the wall-mounted TV.

If that wasn’t enough, there’s a third space; a mammoth bathroom. All stone and stainless steel, its massive bathtub placed in such a way that you can see your view while you chill. Incense and candles at the ready, matches by their side. A walk-in wardrobe, frameless glass shower and toilet with all the fancy buttons behind.

Such luxury; such scale!

Tri Hita Karana

Everything at Umana Bali, from the architecture to the experiences, sustainability and food, is focused through the lens of Tri Hita Karana. This traditional Balinese philosophy talks to a harmony between humans, nature and the divine, which manifests in as rejuvenation of the soul.

Yes, the vast private villas are space enough for many of us to reset and rejuvenate. Or even simply catching the free shuttle down to the lovely, sandy shores of Melasti Beach to swim in the tropical water. For me, however, embracing the cultural activities was where I really started to truly connect.

There’s many to choose from. One morning, I met a local guide in the foyer and set off on a 7km hike into the nearby town of Ungasan. Walking through farmland; visiting temples and cemeteries; shopping at local markets. I loved this glimpse into local life off the tourist trail and hearing stories from someone who had grown up there.

The highlight was stopping at someone’s house, where I not only got to explore the layout and family history, but enjoy a delicious homemade breakfast and coffee – what a treat.

At sunset one night, a free shuttle transferred me down to the Melasti Kecak Fire Dance. An extraordinary amphitheatre built right into the cliff, facing the setting sun. I sat mesmerised by the rhythmic harmonies, elaborate costumes and interactive performance.

Back in the resort, I opted into Balinese wine tasting and local coffee tasting experiences. Both of which were not only informative, but introduced me to a side of Bali I’d underappreciated in the past.

Lohma Spa

For the ultimate in wellness, it’s hard to go past a good masseuse and the Lohma Spa is one of the best I’ve come across. A huge complex laid out like a pagoda, each of its levels offers plenty for those seeking to rejuvenate, exercise or simple be pampered.

On the bottom floor, a spacious fitness centre can be found next to a quiet lap pool. Classes can be taken at the nearby Yoga Pavilion, which I found to be easy and well-paced. Plus, there is the Nagas Room, which delivers meditative sound healing, hot and cold plunge pools, heated stone and a sauna. All freely available.

As you go up, you get into the various treatment rooms, with the top floor reserved mostly for cosmetics. I indulged in a two-hour Boreh & Massage Ritual and it was fantastic.

The traditional Balinese Boreh involves being covered in a herbal body scrub and warming paste, consisting of local organic ingredients known to detoxify the skin, reduce inflammation, relieve muscle tension, boost circulation and smooth the skin. You’re then cocooned in a tight wrap and given a head massage as it soaks in.

The paste feels earthy, grainy and warming, and the effect is out-of-body. After I rinsed off, an hour-long full body massage followed. Needless to say; I walked out feeling like a new human!

Eat Well, Be Well

Umana Bali also offers an exceptional dining experience. The wonderful breakfast is a hybrid of buffet like choice, with a la cate delicacies. Some of the menu items will set your taste buds dancing – for example, my homemade sourdough, baby lobster and truffle scrambled eggs with avocado and caviar! Yum!

Lunch at Commune, the central restaurant, was also an adventure. Western classics are available, but the local Indonesian dishes are truly special. I had the brilliant Archipelago Rijsttafel, which is like an Indonesian Tapas, providing numerous unique dishes from around the country.

For fine-dining, Oliverra sits right on the clifftop with 180-degree views, spacious seating and a Mediterranean inspired menu with, again, some truly unique and inspired options for both food and cocktails. The building’s design is stunning, too.

And from the outdoor seating, you can look 70-metres to the Uma Beach House below. Part of Umana and freely accessible to guests, this beach club not only has an infinity pool, sunlounges and great music, but an enjoyable dining experience leaning into local seafood.

Exceptional Experience

Umana is all about harnessing the Bali way of life into a luxury experience and it does so with aplomb. It’s hard to fault. With 72 pool villas, not all of them share the same amazing view and perhaps that is where you may wish to check your expectations. And while it’s certainly family friendly – there is a kid’s club – it leans more into couples, in my opinion.

But you’ll never forget the villas, nor the food. While the experiences ensure there’s plenty to do, when you’re not soaking in the sun, breeze and beauty of Bali.

By Chris Stead